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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.